As the ship threads through the narrow Aysén Fjord, the mist clings to the sheer emerald cliffs. Stepping off at Puerto Chacabuco, you’re immediately struck by the scale of the landscape. This isn’t a bustling city; it’s a rugged outpost serving as the gateway to the massive Northern Patagonian Ice Field.
Leaving the port, the journey toward Simpson River National Reserve (Reserva Nacional Río Simpson) follows a winding road carved between high granite walls.
“Between Rivers” we pushed on to Coyhaique, the regional capital. Its name means “between rivers” in the indigenous Tehuelche language.- The Presidente Ibáñez Bridge: On the way, you pass through Puerto Aysén and cross the Aysén River via this historic orange suspension bridge—the longest in Chile. It’s a perfect spot for a quick photo, with the turquoise water rushing beneath and mountains framing every angle.
- The Waterfall Trail: As you drive deeper into the valley, two iconic stops appear:
- Cascada de la Virgen: A towering waterfall that drops down a steep cliff right beside the road. Local legend says the mist sometimes reveals the shape of the Virgin Mary.
- Cascada Las Gemelas: “The Twins”—two parallel falls that plummet over 100 feet into a lush, fern-filled basin.
Into the Heart of Simpson River National Reserve
Upon entering the reserve, the landscape shifts into a dense, temperate rainforest. This is the realm of the Huemul (South Andean deer) and the Condor.
The Experience:
- The Visitor Center: Start at the museum to get a handle on the local ecology. It’s small but well-curated, explaining the unique “transition zone” climate where the wet coastal forests meet the drier pampas of the interior.
- Hiking the Riverside: The trails here are generally gentle and accessible. Walking along the banks of the Simpson River, you’ll see the famous “English Muffin Rock”—a massive granite dome that dominates the skyline.
